Really need to get it running again and see. My D was similir but not quite as bad and now after being run for hours is consistently at and dry. Not stellar but still has quite bit of life yet. Glad to hear you're getting rid of the points and resister. Makes the ignition wiring and starting circuit that much simpler.
The plugs are wet because it's pumping gas in and it's not being burned. It's also because it hasn't been running at temperature. Poor compression doesn't help either. Double check your plug wires. Correct firing order is It's just one more thing to verify since it doesn't seem to want to accelerate. Haven't gotten to the point of checking the carbs yet. I suspect that the accelerator pumps aren't squirting and that's another thing, along with no timing advance, wrong firing order, and possibly bad fuel that can be affecting acceleration.
Having a boat and engine that old means that you can't take anything for granted. Everything has to be verified correct. Fuel lines and vents, wiring, cables, etc.
In some ways it makes things easier - you know you have to trace it out and then you know it's right or not. I checked the firing order and cyl 2 and 3 plug wires were swtiched.. I put them back on like they came off of the baot when I got them.. I went ahaed an chenged to the correct order and put the old coil back on and found a fue had blown for the ignition switch It runs and seems to sound good now..
Now my problem is I cannot see the timing marks on the pulley.. I barely see them sitting still.. I put a touch white paint on it to see it and can see that with the light.. Can you tell me where what the marks are on it.. I think I see a 10 20 30 40 marks but was not sure if I adjust for the number or the mark next to it for 12 degrees Also How can I kill this motor without having to pull the dist wire all the time?
The key off position does not kill the motor I hope this thing runs better now on the water Joined Jun 30, Messages 3, Re: Volvo Penta AQ and T outdrive help for new boater the wire on the Pos terminal of the coil needs to come off of the ignition switch. Looks like a green wire in the manual. Iget about 9. There is also a grey wire that has to be hooked to - side in order for it to fire How in the heck to do I kill the boat? Why is the switch not working?
The grey wire is the feed for the Tach. The engine should run without the grey wire hooked up. Can you trace the green wire to the switch?? It has no voltage on it though How does the off switch work? Dows it ground the coil somewhere? Anyone have a closeup of the timing marks I can see? So I can set my timing? Also how do I adjust idle speed..
I amreading thorugh the manual.. Picture of the timing marks is on page 40 of the manual. I'll attach a thumbnail of the page as well. Like I said before, it's probably close.
You really want to be observing that the timing advances as you increase rpm's. Exact numbers aren't as important as finding out if it's advancing.
The plug wires were most likely the major problem but allways verify. Probably a good idea to adjust the timing before setting the idle. Idle is set on each carb with the large screw that is near the front of each carb.
If you look close, you'll see two adjusting screws on each carb. The one farthest forward is the idle speed adjust. The one in about the center is the idle mixture screw. Don't mess with the mixture screws just yet. Yo'll need to adjust he idle speed screws one at a time and get a feel for them. Pick one and turn it out a quarter turn. If no change, turn the one on the other carb. Blip the throttle between adjustments to get the linkage to settle in.
You'll be having one carb lead the adjustments. Just turn the other carb adjust screw so that they're both the same. It's a little hard to explain but i think it'll make more sense when you start doing it. Remember that it'll idle faster out of the water without backpressure on the exhaust so set it around Also make sure it's warmed up it probably is by now when you do the adjusments. Since there aren't any chokes on the carbs, you'll need to adjust idle with the throttle until it warms up.
The ignition switch doesn't short out to stop the engine - it opens so there is no current flow. Now we're in that grey area where what the wiring is supposed to look like may be totally different from what it actually is.
You're going to need to trace the wiring back through the wiring harness plug and to the ignition switch. Been there - done that - invented some new curse words At least you're on to a good start. Thanks for all your help so far!
I really appreciate it.. Since my Tach does not work pulled the tach out and hooked directly to battery and the sensor terminal to the - side of the coil and it didn't work.. So, now I've got a bit of a restoration on may hands but I'm anxious to get her fixed and to be able to get a few more years out of her - hopefully several. Thanks again! Sounds like the Brass split ring keeper broke if it blew the top cap off.
There all pretty much interchangeable as long as you get the same style. IE single bolt or 2 bolt helmet pin. Once you have it take ti to a volvo mechanic and have him shim it to match your drive.
You got lucky it as still in is name for the ride!! The drives are all over. Just make sure you get the right one. I had the same boat. It's not fast at all with the It will run good, just stay out of the 4 bbl. They used a light duty truck motor. The original motor had a propensity for sucking a valve now and again. My boat ran good for the time I had it. A fellow bought a 28 like yours. The boat sat for years. The drain plug was left in.
The boat filled up and the weight pushed the block up through the hull. That was the first repair. The drive was stolen sometime? The new owner comes in one day and say's, I found another drive. He installs it along with swapping u-joints and yokes???? Then he gets it running and put's it in the water. Leave the dock heading for the Baltimore Harbor about 20mi away.
Said the motor ran great but was a bit slow. Him and I go for a ride. Wide open is about 8mph. Turns out he bought a drive for a 4cyl. Then he disappeared and never saw him again. Good luck with your boat. PatinIdaho Good info. Where are the bolts located to help determine this? Can you explain a little more about the shimming process - What are the shims and where do they go?
Are the gears that determine the Gear Ratio 1. So, either the boat is an early version Bayliner that got a rogue AQ from the start original factory datasheet states that the base engine sterndrive package came with a or part or all of the sterndrive has been swapped out before. You say the guy disappeared - After all that he probably jumped off the Bay Bridge. The lower unit is where the gear ratios change. If you look at your transmission right above the serial number there is a pin that will have 1 or 2 bolts in it.
Being a 86 i would think yours is a 2 bolt style but who knows for sure till you look. The bearing on the bottom of the transmission you see in the link you posted needs to be shimmed to run properly with your mid section. Easy to do with the manual and gauges to do it You may also need to change the front yoke if the splines are different but thats easy as you already have the right one and should probably change the drive joints anyway.
Ok, I'm now clear on what you're indicating and I just looked at a picture of the top of my sterndrive that I took the other day and it definitely is a single bolt. My email is : michaeltwell yahoo.
Kelly hempel Saturday, 15 August Heeft er iemand en werkplaatshandboek van een volvo penta heckdrive dp-h en een werkplaatshandboek voor een volvo penta d4 pk alvast bedankt coppejansgeert yahoo. Kevin Thursday, 30 July MWD Wednesday, 17 June Thanks a million for the great reference information. Invaluable for my 5. Cheers, Mike.
I am looking for information on a Volvo Penta 25hp outboard motor NR cooling system. I have no tell tail jet, I have changed the two impeller and seals. I am after a diagram of the top end cooling system before I take any further steps. Pedro Freitas Monday, 18 May Valery Thursday, 23 April Thanks for assistance. Richard Nelson Thursday, 09 April New model. Brenton Woods Tuesday, 24 March Rohan Lewis Tuesday, 10 March Hi I am looking for a workshop manual for a 60 series marine engine C configuration, the install date looks to be and i want to do a top end reset at her next annual works Regards Rohan MD Marine Pty Ltd Boatsrvices Australia.
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